First, a little about the place itself. The meaning of the name ‘Ganktok’ although not clear can be loosely translated as, ‘Gang’ – lofty and ‘Tok’ – hill, lofty hill. Few records exist dealing with the early history of Gangtok. The earliest records date from the construction of the hermitic Gangtok monastery in 1716 C.E.. Gangtok remained a small hamlet until the construction of the Enchey Monastery in 1840 made it a pilgrimage center. After the defeat of the Tibetans by the British, Gangtok became a major stopover in the trade between Tibet and British India at the end of the nineteenth century.
In 1894, Thutob Namgyal, the Sikkimese monarch under British rule, shifted the capital from Tumlong to Gangtok, increasing its importance. He built a new grand palace along with other state buildings in the new capital. Following India’s independence in 1947, Sikkim became a nation-state with Gangtok as its capital. Sikkim became a suzerain of India, with the condition that it would retain its independence, by the treaty signed between the Chogyal and the then Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru. Trade between India and Tibet continued to flourish through the Nathula and Jelepla passes, offshoots of the ancient Silk Road near Gangtok. The warring nations sealed those border passes after the Sino-Indian War in 1962, depriving Gangtok of its trading business. In 1975, the monarchy abrogated, Sikkim becoming India’s twenty-second state, with Gangtok as its capital.
There is this place in Gangtok called the Mahatma Gandhi Marg. People usually take a walk here in the mornings and in the evenings it is one of the busiest shopping complexes in the town. Early in the morning, in the shivering cold once can take a seat here and think in peace. There is no noise anywhere, just the cold winds. It is a kind of redemption that people usually aspire for.
This place offers an opportunity to learn about the buddhist culture and observe it’s similarities with the hindu culture. Let, me give a small example of the similarities between these two cultures,
Does the name of this temple ring a bell? Of course it does. It sounds very similar to ‘Aum Namo Narayanaya Namaha’. Although this particular temple is not located in Gangtok (it is located in Kolkata), it gives a very clear idea of how the buddhist culture is similar to the hindu culture.
First of, I went to this beautiful monastery called the ‘Rumtek monastery’. It is elegantly located a little away from Gangtok. Let us first know a little bit about the history of the place. To know about this history we need to know a little bit about the tbetian buddhism culture. I do not know much about the culture, but I will share what I know as I move forward. In the tibetian Buddhism culture, there is a concept of Karmapa lama. The Karmapa Lama is the head of Karma Kagyu, which is one of the major schools of tibetian buddhism. The historical seat of the Karmapas is Tsurphu Monastery in the Tolung valley of Tibet. The Karmapa’s principal seat in exile is the Dharma Chakra Centre at Rumtek Monastery in Sikkim, India.
Originally built under the direction of Changchub Dorje, 12th Karmapa Lama in the mid-1700s, Rumtek served as the main seat of the Karma Kagyu lineage in Sikkim for some time. But when Rangjung Rigpe Dorje, 16th Karmapa, arrived in Sikkim in 1959 after fleeing Tibet, the monastery was in ruins. Despite being offered other sites, the Karmapa decided to rebuild Rumtek. To him, the site possessed many auspicious qualities and was surrounded by the most favorable attributes. For example, flowing streams, mountains behind, a snow range in front, and a river below. With the generosity and help of the Sikkim royal family and the local folks of Sikkim, it was built by the 16th Karmapa as his main seat in exile.After four years, construction of the monastery was completed. The sacred items and relics brought out from Tsurphu Monastery, the Karmapa’s seat in Tibet, were installed. On Losar in 1966, the 16th Karmapa officially inaugurated the new seat, called “The Dharmachakra Centre, a place of erudition and spiritual accomplishment, the seat of the glorious Karmapa.”
The monastery is currently the largest in Sikkim. It is home to the community of monks and where they perform the rituals and practices of the Karma Kagyu lineage. A golden stupa contains the relics of the 16th Karmapa. Opposite that building is a college, Karma Shri Nalanda Institute for Higher Buddhist Studies. Talking about lamas, we all have heard about the great spiritual leader, Dalai lama. Now, the Dalai lama is very different from the Karmapa lama, Dalai lama is the head of the Gelug school of tibetian buddhism. Now, this monastery is guarded by the Indian army, so that there is no disputes in the place regarding the 17th karmapa lama controversy. The 17th karmapa lama, Ogyen Trinley Dorje, now resides in Dharmashala with HH Dalai lama.
Now, coming to the monastery itself, it is wonderfully constructed and one might find the view from the top to be soothing. No cameras were allowed inside the chambers, so I could not get any pictures of the inside of the monastery. There were a lot of monks inside performing their usual rituals. Near this monastery is the Karma Shri Nalanda Institute, which contains a golden stupa. Inside the golden stupa, the ashes of the 16th karmapa lama resides. Surprisingly, his eyes, tongue and heart were not burnt and are preserved inside the stupa as such.
One might really get into the history and enjoy this place very much. For others, it offers a beautiful panaromic view of the foothills and the kanchanjunga range.
Next, was a beautiful museum of tibetology, called the Namgyal Institute for buddhist studies. If anybody is intersted in knowing about the life of buddha and how buddhism became a largelyfollowed relegion, he/she must visit this museum. Again, because I was not allowed to take a camera inside the museum, I was not able to take pictures of the relics that were kept inside. One can find all the relics that were once used in the buddhist tantric rituals to be in fine condotion in this place. The thigh bones of humans were carved and used as trumps during tantric practices to remind one that death is inevitable. The skulls of humans were used as cups to drink tea that represented blood. Different mudra positions of Buddha in form of statues can be found here. The museum also depicts events from the life of Padmasambhava, also known as the second buddha. There is a lot of interesting history behind all these relics, all of which is difficult to share. For anybody who is really interested can go and visit the website ‘namgyal.org’ to know more.
We all know the great epic ‘Ramayana’. When Lakshmana gets critically wounded after the first battle with Ravava, Rama asks Hanuman to go and get the healing herb called Sanjeevani. So, Hanuman goes and brings an entire hill of Sanjeevani. During his visit to the hills in search of Sanjeevani, he rests in a particular place for a night.
That place in near Gangtok and it’s called Hanuman tok. The place is elegantly maintained by the Indian army and the BRO. One can find a Hanuman temple and a small cabin showing the itihasa of Hanuman tok. This place shows the cultural diversity that exists in Gangtok.
Two of the main attractions for anybody who visits Gangtok are ‘Nathu la pass’ and ‘Changu lake’. Unfortunately, I was not able to go to any of these places as all the roads were blocked by the army due to heavy snowfall. Nonetheless, I will share what I know about these places. The nathu la pass is a pass between the himalyas located on the historic silk route. It is on the Indo-Chinese border and is known to be one of the freindliest borders. You can walk upto the border and shake hands with the chinese soldiers. It’s a heavenly place to be and one must definitely visit this if possible. Next is the Changu lake or the Tsomgo lake. During winter, the lake is usually nothing but 60 feet of solid ice. In Bhutia language the name Tsomgo is made of two words ‘Tso’ meaning “lake” and ‘Mgo’ meaning “head” which gives the literal meaning as “source of the lake”. The lake surface reflects different colours with change of seasons and is held in great reverence by the local Sikkimese people. Buddhist monks prognosticated after studying the changing colours of the lake.
Another mysterious place near the nathu la pass is the Baba Mandir. The reason this place is mysterious because this is not a temple for praying to god, but a temple to pray to a man. The temple is dedicated to a soldier of the Indian army, Baba Harbhajan Singh. He was a soldier of the 18 Rajput regiment. He died in 1968 near the nathu la pass. The reason for so much devotion to him is what he did after his death. Yes, after his death. Any general posted in that region used to get dreams showing him points from where the Chinese troops would infilterate the next day. People, did not believe this at first, but eventually all these dreams came to be true. Baba saved this country from a lot of attacks. To this day, a train ticket is booked in his name every year. His salary reaches his family. He is promoted to a high ranking official of the Indian army. This was all unbelievable to me at first, but believe it or not, this is all true.
This year, the snowing took place very late. I would like to share a message regarding this as a final note to ending this article.
“I am only human, for I weep through the melting ice, as the warmth overwhelms me”
– A Mountain